Soothing skin complaints multiplied by mask-wearing

26 Oct 2021 --- The Swiss flavours, fragrances and active cosmetic ingredients manufacturer Givaudan has used its white biotechnology innovation to produce its latest ingredient, Masknyl. White biotechnology refers to the use of microorganisms, through fermentation and bioconversion, or enzymes via biocatalysis, to create active beauty ingredients.

Activated by the skin’s microflora, Givaudan’s ingredient is an express skin perfector developed to let the skin breathe. Masknyl has been formulated to counteract redness, inflammation and hyperpigmentation that can occur as a result of wearing a face mask. 

With mask-wearing compulsory in many places during the COVID-19 pandemic, the portmanteau word “maskne” was coined by combining the words mask and acne. Its very meaning and usage describe a set of skin issues related to wearing a face mask: local irritation, increased sensitivity, pimples, itchiness and other skin conditions. Conditions occur due to the particular environment generated by the mask’s presence: friction, pressure, humidity and occlusion.

Click to EnlargeWearing a mask exacerbates existing skin complaints.Givaudan, which saw how pre-existing skin concerns have been aggravated due to the use of face masks says: “The warm, humid environment created by breathing inside a face mask creates the ideal microclimate for excessive bacterial growth, quickly generating pore obstructions and pimples. This is exacerbated by the constant rubbing of the mask and its straps, further inflicting redness and irritation.” 

In September 2021, Givaudan Active Beauty carried out its Masknyl Global CMI Study to learn more about consumer perceptions of maskne. The brand found that the term ‘maskne’ is familiar to 74% of consumers worldwide, and their understanding refers not only to breakouts but a range of skin issues due to mask-wearing.

Givaudan’s research and development of Masknyl is the result of consumers’ skin issues and the company’s awareness of these, both of which date back to before COVID. “Even before the pandemic, redness, sensitive skin, hyperpigmentation and discomfort were among the top concerns of consumers all over the world and the sudden surge of these symptoms due to mask-wearing has generated a new demand for fast-acting, reliable and clean solutions tackling all these issues at once,” shares Mathias Fleury from Givaudan Active Beauty.

“Masknyl is, then, answering an actual demand of consumers wearing masks but also answering a demand from consumers experiencing skin issues due to sensitivity, not depending on the mask-wearing,” adds Fleury.

Following Givaudan’s investigations, Fleury details one of its discoveries: “Mask-wearing will not necessarily create new issues on the skin, but will surely make existing issues even worse.” For instance, it was found that individuals with oily skin will secrete even more sebum, while those with sensitive skin will react stronger to external aggressions. 

“Consumers are still looking for an efficient and quick answer to skin issues,” Fleury details. 

Triple action attack on skin complaints

“Masknyl is a phytoactive ingredient crafted from sophorin (phytomelin), a flavonoid with well-documented benefits in terms of antioxidant action, soothing and wound-healing,” says Fleury. “Already used in the cosmetic industry at limited dosage due to its poor solubility, biotechnology has enabled us to improve the bioavailability of sophorin (phytomelin) through glycosylation to craft Masknyl.” 

Through its activation by the skin microbiome, Masknyl delivers a triple action at the biological level by reinforcing the skin antioxidant defenses, reducing the inflammation process and activating the skin-repairing mechanism. “This new China compliant molecule is activated by the skin microflora and improves solubility by a factor of 14,000, offering rapid efficacy in terms of soothing and anti-redness activity,” notes Fleury.

Click to EnlargeMasknyl is activated by the skin microbiome. Source: Givaudan.Clinical tests have demonstrated Masknyl’s ability to visibly reduce the redness on the skin in 24 hours - by 34% versus placebo - in particular in the mouth and cheek area, where a surgical mask has been worn. The active ingredient also prevents hyperpigmentation and dark spots in a few days, which Givaudan found decreased by 3.5% versus placebo. The company reported that volunteers also significantly perceived an improvement in terms of skin comfort and texture, with 74% of Givaudan’s panelists highlighting the fact that their skin was softer and less tight.

Detailing the greatest challenges in conceptualizing and creating Masknyl, Fleury reveals: “One of the key things we wanted to achieve was to obtain a very fast efficacy on those skin issues that we mentioned: redness, sensitivity, itchiness. Acting on cosmetic biological pathways, this is obviously challenging, as we are more used to clinical efficacy after some weeks of treatment.” 

For many consumers, the question may be whether a maskne ingredient has longevity in a post-COVID environment. Givaudan believes it does. 

“Skin discomfort and skin sensitivity are issues known by consumers before the crisis and mask wearing,” states Fleury. “Masknyl is able to solve skin issues that appear to the skin because of the mask, but some people will have the same skin issue even when not wearing a mask.” 

Givaudan's Active Beauty team has created Mask Tonic, which uses Masknyl, to prevent a variety of skin issues. The brand’s 92% natural-origin genderless day cream is designed to reduce redness and control hyperpigmentation. Formulated with PrimalHyalTM 300 and UnitamuronTM H22 Green, the ingredient also works to protect, repair and increase elasticity. 

By Natasha Spencer-Jolliffe, BPC Insights Senior Journalist