BPC needs to build biotechnology awareness with consumers

25 Jun 2021 --- Calls for sustainable and effective ingredients that translate successfully as such in communications and claims is guiding biotechnology innovation in beauty—yet consumer confidence is not there just yet. BPC Insights spoke to Pauline Martin, operational marketing and communications manager at Givaudan about how beauty biotech can fully realize all its available opportunities.

In recent years, the green and clean beauty trends have garnered huge, ongoing attention from beauty and personal care (BPC) consumers who are seeking ingredients, packaging and brands that are proactive towards looking after our planet. However, as the impact raw material sourcing and transportation and logistics have on the sustainability of BPC supply chains comes under question, the industry is increasingly turning to biotechnology. Utilizing this technology, which mimics the sought-after properties of natural ingredients in a laboratory setting, is being tipped as a way to help protect the planet’s ecosystem from further damage.

The present evolution of green and clean beauty to conscious beauty strives to look after people and the planet in a holistic, transparent and tangible way. As brands strive to meet these increasing needs, they first need to be aware of the obstacles that currently exist in the beauty market when it comes to biotechnology.

When asked “What ‘sustainable beauty’ means to you?” in the Innova Beauty and Personal Care Survey 2020, globally, on average, 27% of consumers reported that products made using renewable resources, from green energy, technology, or with no use of palm oil satisfied the meaning of sustainable beauty. However—demonstrating the hurdles biotechnology needs to overcome to appeal to consumers—the highest percentage of responses, answered by 38% of global consumers, related to the idea that natural products or those that avoid synthetic chemical ingredients match their definition of ‘sustainable beauty.’ 

Click to EnlargeEducation is vital to communicate biotechnology potential

“The first challenge around biotech is to make people understand that chemistry can also be green and can rub shoulders with sustainability and low environmental impact,” confirms Martin. “Another challenge is linked to GMOs (Genetically modified organisms).”

According to a study conducted by Givaudan, the ingredients producer found that 44% of consumers think that biotech and GMOs are linked, and as Martin relays “obviously do not like it.” Emphasizing the importance of providing information and generating awareness around the truth about biotech in beauty, Martin continues: “This comes down to the important pillar of educating consumers who, once properly informed, fully believe in biotechnology in cosmetics.”

Givaudan unveiled its Active Beauty technologies to seek to unite science and nature to produce molecules and functional agents that are high-performing in beauty products. “Active Beauty biotechnologies are actually linked to the circular economy and sustainable development to create active ingredients totally free from GMOs,” Martin explains. As the industry seeks to increasingly merge science and nature, part of the journey to instill consumer confidence in the use of biotechnology to create nature-mimicking ingredients is proving biotechnology-led products’ efficacy.  

“The final challenge is to show that the biotech ingredients are just as effective and efficient as their natural alternative, and this can be easily demonstrated because they are supported by biological analysis studies,” confirms Martin.

Insights from the Innova Beauty and Personal Care Survey 2020 note the perceived connection between technology and product effectiveness. Globally, on average, 47% of consumers agree or strongly agree with the statement: “New ingredients/technologies make personal care products more effective.” While this does not refer to biotechnology specifically, it does convey the notion that the identification of new technological developments and ingredients does have a correlation with the efficacy of personal care products.    

Click to EnlargeGivaudan is aiming to expand its range of biosourced products. No biotech innovation setbacks

However, despite the challenges in conveying the developments made possible in beauty by biotechnology, these hurdles are not dampening innovation efforts for multinational active cosmetic ingredients manufacturer, Givaudan. 

“We had a rather slight slowdown on the biological analysis and clinical studies part due to the fact that the laboratories were slowed down,” shares Martin. “It disrupted some ongoing development a little bit but thanks to the involvement of the teams we managed to work on the development of ingredients and we are now back to an almost normal situation,” Martin relays.

Although these areas suffered slight operational disruptions, overall, the Swiss brand has not seen its biotech innovation pipelines slow down due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Givaudan has an established presence in biotechnology via its blue, green and white biotechnologies, applied microbiomics and visual carrier systems. In May 2020, as part of the manufacturer’s long-term strategy to enhance its bio-engineering technologies, Givaudan announced the acquisition of French biotechnology firm, Alderys. Givaudan purchased Alderys with the view to expand its built collection of natural and biosourced products.

“It will be an additional tool to drive our future development and innovation in the active cosmetic ingredients space and beyond,” said Maurizio Volpi, president of Givaudan’s Fragrance Division. “It will also reinforce Givaudan’s capabilities to support our customers in developing sustainable, performant and safe products,” Volpi continued. 

By Natasha Spencer-Jolliffe, BPC Insights Senior Journalist